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Zelman Meats: a flesh-obsessed restaurant for the age of hard Brexit ...
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Zelman Meats — catchphrase ‘great meat’ — is sustenance for a hard Brexit — a harder Brexit, if you will.
It is a snorting meat shack in north Soho; it is also, comfortingly for the reader, mid-market.
Zelman Meats — I wish they would capitalise MEAT, so it is Zelman MEATS, like an article in the Soaraway Sun — is more brutal than baroque.
It is soft and charred and bloody and, thanks to the dull sociopathy of the day, precisely measured: 400 grams ‘dirty steak’; 200 grams chateaubriand, and something called ‘holyfuck mayo’.
At meat restaurants it is a source of pride that everything but the meat be inedible and that is true of Zelman MEATS.
Zelman Meats at Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge – tried and tasted ...
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A silver lining came with what replaced it — this highly affordable steak restaurant serving numerous cuts by the 100g, epic ribs and generously truffled chips, plus some oysters for old times’ sake.
This second site, a several month-long residency at Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, very much follows the lead of the original, with simple wooden decor and red leather banquette seating setting a comfortable scene where the food is the star.
There’s the choice of picanha, brisket, chateaubriand and rib — starting at a very reasonable £7 per 100g — along with pricier cuts such as Wagyu.
It comes into its own should you fancy something white or light to go with oysters followed by a rich red for the steaks that follow.
Final flavour: Sexy steak and a winning wine list from Goodman’s canny little brother.
Zelman Meats, Soho – tried and tasted | London Evening Standard
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ES Food Newsletter Zelman Meats is the latest opening from Moscow-based restaurant group Goodman, which runs steakhouses in Mayfair, the City and Canary Wharf as well as steak and king crab concept Beast in Marylebone and the Burger Lobster chain, which now has nine sites in London as well as several further afield.
Its menu will change regularly, with the idea being to perfect the cooking of varying cuts — but always focusing on sliced, good value slabs of meat.
Barbecue: ribs at Zelman Meats A short selection of sides include roasted aubergine with yoghurt and harissa, and grilled courgette with chilli, mint and feta — along with a choice of two outstanding potato options.
10/17 LONDON'S BEST HOT DOGS 11/17 LONDON'S BEST DOUGHNUTS 12/17 LONDON'S BEST BACON (AND EGG) SANDWICHES 13/17 LONDON'S BEST OYSTERS 14/17 LONDON'S BEST FRENCH RESTAURANTS 15/17 LONDON'S BEST INDIAN RESTAURANTS Five traditional Indian restaurants loved by ex-pats in Central London See the list.
16/17 LONDON'S BEST STREET FOOD 17/17 LONDON'S BEST NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANTS Liquid libations Cocktails, beers and all bases are covered, but it’s the hefty selection of red wines which is best suited to the red meat.
Zelman Meats: restaurant review | Jay Rayner | Life and style | The ...
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So they closed, put in red leather booths and a huge smoker and reopened as Zelman Meats doing a narrow menu of beef cuts: that’s short rib and sirloin, rump and chateaubriand, generally by the 100g, as well as triple-cooked chips and the like.
There are oysters to start, both naked and toasted under breadcrumbs with the tiresomely blunt instrument which is the cult Holy Fuck chilli sauce, made by the Rib Man, a well-known street food operator.
Indeed Zelman Meats feels like the entry level for the business.
■ Zelman Meats feels like a companion piece to Shotgun BBQ, a short walk away on Kingly Street.
■ Yet another victim of Mayfair’s costs: Eric Chavot’s well-received restaurant Brasserie Chavot – oh those soft shell crabs – has ceased trading from the Westbury Hotel on London’s Conduit Street.
Zelman Meats | Restaurants in Soho, London
food value
It is, to quote ‘a pricing strategy where a product is sold at a price below its market cost to stimulate other sales of more profitable goods’.
In pride of place was a Brazilian cut of steak, called Picanha, priced at what seemed a steal: £6 (per 100g).
The Picanha was the best dish, but you have to order a minimum of 200g (so, real price: £12, excluding sauces at 75p each, or any sides).
A plate of so-what ‘triple cooked’ chips - £4.50.
This place could be quite good.