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Fathom - Yotam Ottolenghi's Nopi Restaurant in London

It's dish after dish of acid, umami, uncanny seasoning, temperature play.

Yotam Ottolenghi's Nopi is everything Emily Fiffer hoped it would be.

After a recent trip to London and a meal at Nopi in Soho, I can say with certainty that one man — lauded chef Yotam Ottolenghi (Plenty, Jerusalem, Ottolenghi restaurants, Nopi, you know the drill) — coaxes nettles the way I assume Jack Nicholson does women.

Nopi was everything I'd hoped it would be: a meal that tasted as if it were cooked by someone who understands exactly what makes my palate hum.

Cook it at home: Buy Ottolenghi's Jerusalem cookbook Fathom Favorites: See all our London Restaurants Everything Else in Blighty: London Guide

The Palomar, restaurant review: I took the precaution of inviting ...

A curious, crazy one-off, where the chefs and owners are having as much fun as the customers, the menu brims with bountiful Middle Eastern maximalism, and the music rocks nearly as hard as the food.

In a party atmosphere, with chefs downing shots, singing and dancing, it showcases local produce in fusion dishes which draw inspiration from Jewish, Arabic and Mediterranean traditions.

The traditional mezze selection is served here as the Daily 6, six small bowls filled with good things – Swiss chard scattered with nubbles of feta and candied almonds; sharply-dressed fried aubergine with pomegranate seeds; a cloud of labneh floating in za'atar-spiked olive oil.

From the raw bar, kubenia, a take on steak tartare; chopped beef, spiked with bulgur and anointed with tahini and pomegranate seeds.

Clamorous, cramped and exciting, The Palomar comes from a place where sharing and breaking down barriers between Jewish and Arabic food is a more profoundly meaningful business than it is here.

Ottolenghi | Islington Restaurant - London Restaurants Review

Ottolenghi | Islington Restaurant Yotam Ottolenghi: political activist, gay rights campaigner, pilates instructor, philosophy and comparative literature major and multi award winning cook-book writer.

He also owns and runs Ottolenghi – a North African restaurant with Middle Eastern influences specialising in baked goods, salads and tapas-style fusion food – which, understandably, is just as good as he is.

If you plan on having breakfast or lunch: wake up, make your way to Islington’s Upper Street (preferably via a leisurely stroll along Regents Canal), join the short walk-in only queue, and goggle through the giant glass window at the mountain of sun-yellow, inky-blue, and flaminggo-pink pastries only moments away.

Alternatively, for reservations of more than 4 people please either email [email protected] or call 020 7288 1454 Ottolenghi Islington | 287 Upper St, Islington, N1 2TZ Ottolenghi Notting Hill | 63 Ledbury Road, W11 2AD Ottolenghi Belgravia | 13 Motcomb Street, SW1X 8LB   Like being in the loop about London’s newest bar and restaurant openings?

Check out our excellent guide to new bars in London and new restaurants in London.

Bala Baya: Ottolenghi protégé's restaurant has Middle Eastern ...

You’ll see the influence of the Israeli super-cook in the dishes at Bala Baya, which aims to bring a slice of hip Tel Aviv to London.

It takes its lead from Eran’s mother’s Middle Eastern home cooking, as well as the city’s dynamic street food scene.

But as the cusine has flourished — thanks in no small part to the influence of Ottolenghi — the game has been upped.

Final flavour: Middle Eastern promise from an Ottolenghi protégé — but there's work to do.

Visit if you like: Ottolenghi, Foley’s, Yalla the latest news and reviews from London’s food scene.

Nopi, London W1, restaurant review - Telegraph

K had the confit artichoke with farro, broad beans and preserved lemon (£8).

The rest was a bit boring, or – in more pusillanimous terms – criminally underseasoned.

Ottolenghi's schtick, as I understand it, is spanking freshness, brilliantly vivid ingredients sprinkled on just ahead of time.

This dish was a bit fatty, the walnut salsa was waxy and, again, underseasoned and the pomegranate molasses dressing was out of step, too zingy for the rest of this sleepy dish.

The croquettes were quite nice, but my enjoyment was marred by the feeling that they were crying out for a delicious side of coleslaw, with a punchy dressing, a nice crunch or even, for the love of God, some basic moisture, a bit of salad cream.

Restaurant review: Nopi | Life and style | The Guardian

Meal for two, including wine and service £110 I stared down the long, shiny dining room of Nopi, Yotam Ottolenghi's new, flash, rather grown-up restaurant, named a little clumsily for its position North Of Piccadilly.

His north London deli-cafés (and the cookbooks they have spawned) have a cool, clean fresh look which serves only to act as a frame for the vibrancy of his food.

More thrills were to be found in a salad of braised artichokes with broad beans and the mediated sharpness of preserved lemons, in a plateful of wobbly, fresh burrata – young mozzarella – with blood oranges and coriander seeds, and in a special of shredded brussels sprouts with wild mushrooms.

We loved fat seared scallops with a slick of umami-rich chilli jam alongside (shredded) green apples and pickled daikon, and some equally big prawns in a tomato sauce flavoured with fennel and feta, that simply demanded to be spooned straight from the dish.

Better still was fresh churros – long, deep-fried Spanish-style doughnuts – with, for dipping, a hot chocolate sauce and a saucer of sugar, blitzed with fennel seeds.