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review of London pizza restaurant Radio Alice in London by Andy ...
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They use imported stoneground wholemeal flour for the dough, tomatoes from a partnership of organic farmers in Italy, mozzarella from Puglia – you get the idea.
This badly needed something: salt, pepper, olive oil, a dressing, but was just a few slices of tomato and cheese put in a bowl and priced at £6 (8/20).
For all the loving details on the menu about the flour, the base was dry, thick and dull with none of the bubbling, blistered char that a good pizza base from a really hot oven might have.
The tomato sauce had, for all the blurb on the menu, little discernble flavour, and the main flavour came from the chill oil that I requested, which, incredibly, incurs an extra charge (barely 10/20).
A pizza of baked potato with pancetta and mozzarella with asiago cheese (a cow milk cheese from Veneto) was an odd combination of toppings.
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Gail's Kitchen, restaurant review: The sharing-plate concept puts ...
drinks food
To Gail's Kitchen, which is the restaurant offshoot of Gail's Artisan Bakery, a 16-strong chain across London.
For a carb lover like me, going to Gail's on the way to work for a coffee and pastry is like Shane MacGowan popping into the pub for a swift half – we're lucky if we emerge still conscious (in my case, as a result of slipping into a sugar coma, thanks to the lemon drizzle cakes, the Soho buns, the almond Danishes and the chocolate-smothered loaf cakes).
What about a lovely big pie, or a plate of tasty, busy salad and lots and lots of lovely bread?
And I know that Debs is not good at sharing at the best of times… There then follows a tussle – first between me and my guest, for the inevitable last bit of each dish (which only proves my belief that one can only share with someone you don't mind offending, or to whom you can reveal your pure greed).
Gail's Kitchen, 11-13 Bayley Street, WC1 tel: 020 7323 9694 £90 for two, with wine I don't have one, but this asparagus trick makes me reconsider.
Restaurant review: Gail's Kitchen | Life and style | The Guardian
food
A point, four or so dishes into lunch, when I stopped, knife and fork held aloft, and stared quizzically at a bowl of roasted butternut squash and carrots with a few bitter buttered greens, some raisins and pine nuts; a dish of winter with a spring in its step.
As the place has a bakery in its DNA, bread underscores the food.
The menu of small plates, between £6 and £10, is strong on this vibrant non-meat cookery: there's polenta chips with Gorgonzola; battered herbs with fresh goat's curd and honey; roasted beetroot with lentils, soft cheese and flat bread; Spanish rotolo with ricotta and wild mushrooms.
It was deep and rich and sticky and showed the benefit of baking something other than bread in a bread oven.
Our other meat dish, a steak sandwich with Comté cheese, watercress and grated horseradish, was let down by the slices of tasteless rare beef.
Gail's Kitchen | Restaurants in Fitzrovia, London
food
Housed in what used to be the hotel’s bar, the interior at Gail’s Kitchen is bright and breezy.
A little plateful of these appears on your table,sliced up and served with oil and butter, it’s tempting to fill up on these before your dishes even arrive.
As you’d expect, bread plays a central role on the menu of small plates, which features dishes such as mackerel rillettes with toasted rye, or steak sandwiches with comté cheese.
Fresh from the pizza oven proudly on display in the open kitchen, the ‘white’ pizza took the form of an oblong of pillowy baked dough drizzled with plenty of quality olive oil and topped with rich burrata cheese, violet artichoke wedges, parma ham – and bread croutons for some added bite.
Although the small plates are a little on the pricey side (£10.50 for the seafood chowder, for example), friendly service and a simple but appealing menu add up to a winning formula.