New River Cafe

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http://www.newrivercafe.com

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The London Review of Breakfasts: New River Cafe, Stoke Newington

Review analysis
food  

New River Cafe271 Stoke Newington Church StStoke NewingtonN16 9JH020 7923 9842by Malcolm EggsThanks to Fiona, a reader via Londonist, for pointing us in the direction of the New River Café.

I asked for a ‘number two’ (sausage, bacon, fried egg, beans, tomato, toast, plus tea or coffee) with extra hash browns, she for the first vegetarian option (vegetarian sausage, scrambled eggs, hash browns, beans, mushrooms, plus tea or coffee).

My egg was a decent over-easy and the hash browns were the right kind of crunchy.

But Mabel’s scrambled egg was overcooked, her mushrooms non-descript and there were tomato-based issues for us both: nebulous, watery tomatoes and over-juiced beans, which threatened to flood the entire plate, even overflow onto the table.

The plates we left weren’t empty but the walk home was pleasant, briefly joining the 27-mile New River Path from which the café takes its name.

RETURN TO THE RIVER CAFE | The Independent

Review analysis
food   drinks   location  

It is important to use Italian pasta flour labelled Tipo '00' (a soft, wheat, finely ground pasta flour) and only very fresh eggs.

In your processor or mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour with the eggs and the egg yolks, then add the spinach and salt.

Keeping the mixer on a low speed, knead the dough in the same way as for fresh pasta (left).

Roll the pasta out by hand on a work surface, dusted with semolina flour, to a large sheet, as thin as possible; it will not matter if there are a few holes or tears.

Using a pasta machine, roll the balls out into long strips (do this one at a time to prevent drying) as thin as possible.

Charting River Cafe's 30-Year Legacy | The Daily | MR PORTER

The prospect of revisiting it for a new, 30th anniversary edition was therefore more than a little daunting.

But Ms Rogers, alongside her co-authors Ms Sian Wyn Owens and Mr Joseph Trivelli, have more than risen to the challenge in producing River Cafe 30, a new River Cafe cookbook that, as well as compiling and updating a gratifying number of classic River Cafe recipes, offers an insight into the history of the restaurant.

Key among its many contributors – from Mr Jean Pigozzi, who shot atmospheric images of the restaurant’s interior, to Messrs Damien Hirst and Peter Doig, who drew upon menus to the River Cafe to create original artworks – is the photographer (and MR PORTER Style Council member) Mr Matthew Donaldson, who first met Ms Rogers while shooting a film about her home for the fashion film site NOWNESS, and who is responsible for the book’s fresh, crisp and gloriously unfussy food photography (which was shot in the restaurant’s famous garden terrace).

MR PORTER met them both over a plate of taglierini to discuss the book – here’s what they had to say.

Anti-pasta! New River Cafe plan gets Mayfair residents boiling ...

Review analysis
staff   food   location  

ES Food Newsletter Chef Ruth Rogers is facing a revolt by Mayfair residents over her plans to open a sister restaurant to her Michelin-starred River Cafe.

Locals in the quiet street where she hopes to launch her Italian restaurant next year fear it will bring late-night noise and disruption to a “special enclave” that includes two sheltered housing blocks.

But meetings between residents and the Duke of Westminster’s property company Grosvenor failed to settle a dispute over the impact of the restaurant on Grosvenor Hill.

There are also concerns about Grosvenor’s plans to convert one of a row of listed garages on nearby Bourdon Street into a retail unit.

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Theo Randall at The InterContinental: Grand return of pasta master ...

Review analysis
staff   drinks   menu   value   food  

When Theo Randall left The River Café beside the Thames after working there for 17 years — 10 of them as head chef — his decision to throw in his lot with The InterContinental Park Lane rather than launch an independent place of his own puzzled many of us who dwell on such things.

Ten years on from that start in autumn 2006, with two books written and various Best This, Best That awards lobbed his way, Randall’s revamped restaurant with its new look and apparently embellished menu re-opened last week.

Taggiasca olives, Lamon borlotti beans, Castelluccio lentils — those little devils insinuate themselves all over the place on Randall’s menu — Volpaia vinegar, pecorino di Pienza and so forth are not the arcane, magical invocations they perhaps once were.

Restaurants as varied (and enticing) as Bocca di Lupo, Lurra, Brunswick House Café, Portland, Newman Arms, Noble Rot, Kitty Fisher’s and Frenchie — to name just a few — all procure pristine produce and treat it mindfully, the approach that The River Café espoused to astonished acclaim nearly 30 years ago.

“Five-star hotel eating costs a lot” is not breaking news but even an attempt to take advantage of a re-opening offer — Hot Dinners’ 50 per cent off food cost offer (no longer applicable) — is thwarted first by no response to the booking and then the full amount being charged, amended after protest.

Ebury to publish River Cafe 30 | The Bookseller

Review analysis
food  

Ebury to publish River Cafe 30 Published March 29, 2017 by Katherine Cowdrey Ruth Rogers is writing a new River Cafe cookbook to celebrate 30 years since London-based Italian restaurant The River Cafe first opened in 1987, publishing with Ebury Press in October.... Ruth Rogers is writing a new River Cafe cookbook to celebrate 30 years since London-based Italian restaurant The River Cafe first opened in 1987, publishing with Ebury Press in October.

In River Cafe 30, an update of the original cookbook published in 1994, there will be 90 recipes from the first book, updated for cooks today, and 30 new recipes from the restaurant’s kitchen, such as Red Peppers and Prosecco Bagna Cauda, Veal Shin in Barbaresco, Squid, Peas and Anchovies.

Rogers said: "To celebrate thirty years of The River Cafe, we are writing a new cookbook with Ebury Press, River Cafe 30.

Jean Pigozzi will reshoot some of his images from the original River Cafe Cookbook, Matthew Donaldson will take new recipe photos and the book is being designed by Michael Nash Associates.

Higginson added: "We can’t wait to bring the River Cafe back to our front list this autumn.

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