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Menu

An optional 12.5% service charge, which is given to the staff, will be added to all prices.

If you have any concerns please ask a member of staff before ordering.

Vegetarian London: Ethos Restaurant Review | Londonist

Review analysis
food  

In this series, we review restaurants from an entirely vegetarian angle.

While some restaurants will be specifically vegetarian, others will be mainstream.

Along the way, we’ll try to find out, as far as possible, whether chicken stock, cheese made from animal rennet, gelatine, fish sauce and so on are not lurking in the supposedly vegetarian dishes.

Yen Japanese London: Restaurant Review - olive magazine

Review analysis
food   location   ambience   menu   staff   drinks  

Smart buckwheat (soba) noodle restaurant opens up on The Strand in London.

Expect stylish contemporary décor with handmade noodles, sushi and Japanese dishes.

The noodle gurus have brought their art to London in a stunning restaurant off The Strand in a space so smart it could be mistaken for a concept design store – high up on the walls, different shades of maple wood slot together to form eye-catching features, the bespoke pale grey and maple chairs and tables are made by Italian designers, and instagrammers are already taking selfies on the wooden staircase.

As with many Japanese restaurants, the menu can be a little overwhelming at first glance, with sections for sushi, noodles and rice dishes as well as the usual starters and mains.

We began with a couple of starters – super silky homemade tofu mousse, whipped until it veered into angel delight territory, mixed with dashi sauce, fresh ginger and spring onions for little bursts of flavour, and lightly seared salmon marinated in ginger and citrus, topped with tiny drops of egg yolk, plum sauce and a single fried crunchy caper, served with crisp squares of deep-fried salmon skin and grassy pea shoots.

Fay Maschler reviews Jidori: I've found My Dessert of the Year ...

Review analysis
food   staff   drinks  

After the Vietnamese restaurants run out, located demurely and stylishly in what was previously a bridal wear shop is now Brett Redman and Natalie Lee-Joe’s yakitori restaurant Jidori.

For London, the menu notes, it is specifically Goosnargh chicken bought directly from Swainson House Farm in Lancashire.

Practically all the bits and pieces are either skewered and cooked on a grill imported from Kama-Asa in Tokyo over charcoal similar to binchotan, used in broth, or minced to make tsukune to dip into a sauce of egg yolk, soy and the coating for katsu curry scotch egg.

Having particularly appreciated mackerel tartare wrapped in lettuce lined with a shiso leaf served with young ginger and mandarin ponzu; thigh pieces with spring onion; wing with shiso and grilled lemon; spinach ohitashi (blanched leaves steeped in dashi); aubergine and miso butter and what I am controversially announcing right now as My Dessert of the Year — ginger ice cream with miso caramel, sweet potato crisps and black sesame — I am more than willing to believe that Jidori is as fine as some of the Memory Lane yakitori joints in Shinjuku, as the publicity claims.

In London we have a lot to thank Australian chefs for.

Anzu, London, restaurant review: 'the vibe is allegedly “Japanese ...

Review analysis
food  

For example, in the allegedly short walk from Charing Cross to our destination, Anzu, Google Maps decides that what it really wants to do is send us to my agent’s office in Haymarket.

Tempting though this is, I have a guest, so my friend Lize and I keep on staring at our phones; other than a little plastic block in a marketing department’s minimally conceptual architect’s model of SW1, what (never mind where) is “St James’s Market”?

etc), we stumble across Anzu – the newest offering from the team behind those pleasing ramen-purveyors Tonkotsu – on a windy intersection of shops/restaurants/office blocks.

It’s not much of a “Market” either: just blandly internationalist offices and work-in-progress venues for speedy food consumption.

I mean, who would choose the rectangle inside Haymarket, Pall Mall, Lower Regent Street and Piccadilly Circus for a sexy date night?

Pachamama, London W1: 'Unlikely to trouble the Deliciously Ella ...

Review analysis
food   staff   ambience  

We’re instructed to order “three to four dishes each” from an eccentric menu, kicking off with “snacks” and “sweets”, before moving to “sea”, “land” and “soil”.

Chunks of almost caramelised aubergine are cooled by a pool of smoked yoghurt and given texture by toasted pecan; what with these and fried plantain in a mulch of black olive and feta, sweetened with that yacón syrup (from the root of an Andean plant and touted as the next superfood), the vegetarian pal is in a state that can only be described as blissed out.

Chicarrónes are like the best sweet’n’sour pork you’ve never had, flesh luxuriously tender, fat melting, the small chunks crisp on the outside from a thorough deep-frying and slicked with a sticky glaze.

Rawson’s background in everything from streetfood burgers (Lucky Chip) to fine dining (Viajante) means food as rollercoaster, swooping from huge, trashy flavours (those chicharrónes) to nuanced delicacy (sea bream ceviche, beautifully balanced, with the occasional “Eek!”

Rawson moved on last month – I’ve heard possibly to a higher-end version of Pachamama – but he’s left a hell of a menu behind.

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