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Restaurant review: Preston's: A Burger Joint ... - Columbus

Enhanced ingredients and techniques of experienced chefs lend oomph to what’s often considered to be downscale fare G.A. Benton The healing power of a terrific burger and fries knocked back with a cold draft beer in a friendly dive bar shouldn't be underestimated, especially during turbulent times.

Nonetheless, idling about in the Three Sheets tavern and inhaling indulgent food from Preston's: A Burger Joint (nee Ambrose Eve) couldn't hurt — and could easily cheer you up, if only for a precious little while.

Preston's is the inspired alliance of chefs Catie Randazzo of the Challah food truck and Matt Heaggans, former chef at The Rossi, Flatiron Bar and Diner, and the Swoop food truck.

Preston's limited menu reflects the food-truck backgrounds of its chefs and might be summarized as upgraded takes on what is often considered to be downscale grub.

I'd also bet that few people sampling Preston's ginger-spiked Hot Chicken Sandwich ($12) would want to stop eating the messy creation.

Restaurant Review: Superiority Burger in the East Village - The New ...

Last time, it was peach sorbet under gelato made with toasted hamburger buns; there were roasted peaches between them and a powder of the toasted buns, soaked in milk and dried, dusted over the top.

Wearing the paper cap of an old-time burger flipper or soda jerk, Mr. Headley takes care to serve his ice creams just cold enough to slide when they touch your tongue.

This is, of course, a meatless sloppy Joe, a sesame-seed roll filled with tofu in a marvelously spicy tomato sauce, with fried onions on top.

The menu’s nicest surprise is the Superiority Wrap, a whole-wheat tortilla encasing tofu and brown rice.

The chard salad had “Zuni pickled onions,” and raspberry sorbet came with “CF cream cheese gelato.”

From Burgers to Sundaes, the Loyal Plays to the Crowd - The New ...

The tomato at John Fraser’s latest restaurant, the Loyal, is the first one I’ve ever met that helps the burger so much that it becomes the whole point.

Mr. Fraser calls it a “22-step tomato.”

Unlike the last two places Mr. Fraser opened, which have themes — Nix is vegetarian and Narcissa’s menu revolves around the rotisserie — the Loyal is a free-for-all.

All this may cause eye fatigue long before you get to the crawl of side dishes at the bottom of the page.

The something-for-everybody menu works, in the sense that by around 6:30 p.m. it starts to appear as if everybody has decided to eat there at once: bachelorette-party celebrators in plastic tiaras; people who look like artists and people who look like art collectors; older couples gaping in amusement at younger couples who have no idea they’re being gaped at.

Restaurant Review: Meat Is Murder, but Next Level Burger Is Just Killer

Restaurant Review: Meat Is Murder, but Next Level Burger Is Just Killer To paraphrase a Morrissey lyric, I always thought of "vegan" as something you are more than something you do.

This is why I got excited when I heard about Next Level Burger, where every menu item is plant-based.

As for the burgers, I wholeheartedly recommend the All-American ($8.50): a "meaty" patty topped with smoky tempeh bacon (fried nicely, but still too chewy to do bacon's real job on a burger, which is to crunch), either cheddar or Swiss-style "cheese," and egg-free mayo.

Also excellent: the Sausage Bacon burger (that "sausage" patty is fantastic, $8), the Signature (an umami mushroom and quinoa patty, with sliced avocado, and roasted garlic thyme mayo, $8), and the heroically sloppy Chili Chz Dog ($7.50).

I haven't yet had the nerve to try the menu's most hedonistic option: the Animal (double sausage patty with bacon, crinkly cut fries, sautéed onion, cheese, and two sauces).